May 22, 2009
WebMD

High-SPF Sunscreens: Are They Better? WebMD discusses the pros and cons of high-SPF sunscreens.

By Salynn Boyles
Reviewed by Louise Chang, MD

If you’ve shopped for sunscreen lately, you have probably noticed the proliferation of products with ever-higher sun protection factor (SPF) ratings.

Just a few years ago, it was hard to find a sunscreen claiming an SPF higher than 45. These days, the shelves are lined with products from companies such as Banana Boat, Coppertone, and Aveeno touting SPF ratings of 70+, 80, and 90+.

Neutrogena recently introduced Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch Sunblock SPF 100+.

But is a 100+ or a 90+ sunscreen really that much better than one with an SPF of 15?

SPF 100: Twice as Good As SPF 50?
SPF refers to the ability of a sunscreen to block ultraviolet B (UVB) rays, which cause sunburns, but not UVA rays, which are more closely linked to deeper skin damage. Both UVA and UVB contribute to the risk of skin cancer.

It is a measure of the time it would take an individual to burn in the sun if they were not wearing sunscreen vs. the time it would take with sunscreen on.

“SPF is not a consumer-friendly number,” says Florida dermatologist and American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) spokesman James M. Spencer, MD. “It is logical for someone to think that an SPF of 30 is twice as good as an SPF of 15, and so on, but that is not how it works.”

According to Spencer, an SPF 15 product blocks about 94% of UVB rays, an SPF 30 product blocks 97% of UVB rays, and an SPF 45 product blocks about 98% of rays.

“After that, it just gets silly,” he says.

Sunscreens with higher SPF ratings block slightly more UVB rays, but none offers 100% protection.

Spencer says SPF 15 sunscreens are fine if used correctly, but he recommends SPF 30 products to his patients because few people apply sunscreens as heavily or as often as they should.

Farah Ahmed, who is general council for the cosmetics industry group Personal Care Products Council, concedes that the difference in sunburn protection between the medium- and high-SPF sunscreens is not great.

But she says the high SPF products may better protect against long-term skin damage and exposure-related skin cancers.

In a written statement, Neutrogena notes that because most people use far less sunscreen than is recommended, high SPF sunscreens can offer better protection.

“Higher SPFs used over a lifetime may translate to healthier skin in later life,” the statement reads. “While the difference in the percentage of ultraviolet radiation blocked between an SPF 55 and SPF 100+ may be slightly less than 1%, applying an SPF 100 may lead to much less cumulative sun damage over a lifetime.”

What about UVA Rays?
Finding a sunscreen that adequately protects against UVA rays is much trickier, but every bit as important. UVA radiation reaches deeper into the skin and contributes to wrinkles and skin cancer risk. Nearly all (95%) of the UV radiation that we are exposed to is UVA radiation.

What about UVA Rays? continued...
Many of the high SPF sunscreens use chemical filters to block UVA rays, which may offer only marginal protection.

That’s because avobenzone or Parsol 1789 and Mexoryl, two UVA filters, break down quickly and lose effectiveness in the sun unless stabilized.

The stabilization process is difficult and few companies have been able to prove that they can do it, Spencer says.

San Francisco-area dermatologist Sonia Badreshia-Bansal, MD, recommends two chemical-based sunscreens to her patients -- Neutrogena sunscreens with Helioplex and Loreal’s LoRoche Posay with avobenzone.

She says helioplex is a stabilizer that has been proven to keep avobenzone from breaking down.

Spencer also recommends Loreal’s sunscreens that have Mexoryl as the active UVA-blocking ingredient.

Badreshia-Bansal says she prefers barrier-type sunscreens containing zinc oxide or titanium to chemical ones, but she concedes that her patients don’t usually like the over-the-counter versions because they tend to be thick, pasty, and opaque.

She frequently prescribes medical-grade sunscreens with micronized zinc formulations that are less heavy and chalky. She recommends SkinCeuticals sunblocks with SPF 30, which contain high concentrations of micronized zinc oxide and/or titanium oxide, and Obagi sunscreens with SPF 30 and micronized zinc for all skin types.

“I’m darker-skinned and I can put them on my skin without it showing,” she says.

Both agreed that even the best sunscreens need to be used properly to work.

“The best way make sure you are protected is to reapply sunscreen often,” Spencer says. “You just can’t put it on in the morning and forget about it. I don’t care if it’s SPF 800 or the best UVA protection, after a few hours it’s gone.”

High SPF Sunscreens: Short Shelf Life?
Whether you choose to use a high SPF sunscreen or not, their days may be numbered. The FDA, which is working on a new labeling system for sunscreens, says it plans to limit SPF claims to 50+ when the changes are finalized, possibly by the end of the year.

Spokeswoman Rita Chappelle says sunscreen companies will have a year to 18 months to change their labels once that happens.

If they submit scientific evidence proving that their products provide the level of protection they claim, they can continue to market sunscreens with higher SPF ratings.

When contacted by WebMD, representatives of Neutrogena, Banana Boat, and Coppertone all said they planned to comply with the FDA label changes.

In a written statement, Coppertone says it has submitted evidence to the FDA for review in support of Coppertone's high-SPF products.

And Energizer Personal Care, which makes Banana Boat and Hawaiian Tropics sunscreens, says it will follow all FDA guidelines but will “assess our options” regarding their high-SPF products after the FDA label changes are finalized.

Consumer Groups Rate Sunscreens
How well do sunscreens really work? Until the FDA comes out with its rating system, Spencer and Badreshia-Bansal say it is difficult to know.

In its July issue, Consumer Reports rated five popular SPF 45+ and five SPF 30 to 45 sunscreens.

According to Consumer Reports, some of the top performers were Walgreen’s Continuous Spray Sport SPF 50, Coppertone Water Babies SPF 50, Aveeno’s Continuous Spray SPF 45, and Bull Frog’s Marathon Mist Continuous Spray SPF 36.

In a report released last year, the environmental advocacy organization Environmental Working Group questioned the safety of chemical-based sunscreens.

EWG Senior Analyst Sonya Lunder tells WebMD that the group’s highest rated products contained the barrier sun blockers zinc oxide or titanium dioxide.

The group’s top picks included:

• Blue Lizard (without oxybenzone)
• California Baby SPF 30+
• CVS with zinc oxide
• Jason Natural Cosmetics Sunbrella Mineral Based Sunblock
• Kiss My Face “Paraben Free” series
• Neutrogena Sensitive Skin Sunblock

Whatever product you choose, experts recommend using a water-resistant sunscreen applied liberally, a half hour before going outdoors. Sunscreen should be reapplied at least every two hours or after swimming, drying off, or sweating.